We Belgians have a knack for the bitter - and we know like nobody else how to turn it into something else! You gotta, when you live in a country where it rains 150 days per year. And where you pay for so many governments. Every Belgian grandma knows how to make this perfectly. But since kidnapping old ladies is frowned upon in most cultures, you'll have to make it yourself - or visit Belgium. So here's a delightful autumn and winter classic: Belgian Endive aka Witloof aka White Gold. One of my favourite dishes to come home to after a long hike in the forest (or a city walking tour). Looking for some amazing autumn activities to visit in Belgium? Check out my top 5 of Belgian autumn activities!
Ingredients (Serves 4)
8 Belgian endives (those are the long, leafy veggies with a gentle bitterness)
8 slices of good salted ham (think thick and flavourful)
60 grams of wheat flour (¼ cup)
60 grams of real, salted butter (4 tablespoons), plus extra for cooking
1 bottle of Belgian beer with a hoppy profile (a saison or IPA. I used Belgoo Bloemekei)
Salt, pepper, and nutmeg (known as nootmuskaat in Flemish)
Plenty of cheese, as much as you like — try a mix of sharp and mild: parmesan, cheddar, emmental, and if you can find it, Belgian abbey cheese (Maredsous or a similar one)
500 ml of milk (2 cups)
Let’s Cook!
Prepare the Endives: Start by washing the endives and cutting a small triangular notch out of the tough, bitter base. This makes them tender and less intense.
Brown the Endives in Butter: Melt some butter (a couple of tablespoons) in a large pan over high heat. Once the butter turns golden, add the endives, sprinkle with plenty of black pepper, and let them brown. I personally like it when the ends of the leaves start to get really dark and caramelised.
Add Beer and Simmer: Pour in just enough beer to cover the pan’s bottom. Cover the pan, reduce the heat to low, and let the endives simmer for at least 20 minutes. The hops bring out the natural bitterness in the endives, while the malt adds just a touch of sweetness. Add more beer if needed, but save a swig for yourself!
Drain the Endives: Once they’re tender and easily pierced with a fork, transfer them to a colander or sieve and press gently to remove extra liquid. You want them fairly dry before the next step.
Make the Cheese Sauce: In a saucepan over medium heat, melt 4 tablespoons of butter. Whisk in the flour to form a smooth paste (a roux). If it’s not pulling together, add a little more butter. It should form a smooth ball around the whisker. Let this cook until it smells like fresh pancakes—this means the flour’s ready.
Add Milk Gradually: Add the milk a bit at a time, whisking constantly and letting it thicken before adding more. Aim for a sauce that’s thick yet pourable.
Cheese Time: Stir in the shredded cheeses, adjusting thickness if needed with a splash more milk. Add salt, pepper, and a generous pinch of nutmeg (nootmuskaat). This creamy sauce will bind everything together and add layers of flavor.
Assemble the Gratin: Preheat your oven to 200°C (400°F). Wrap each endive in a slice of ham and place them snugly in a baking dish. Pour the cheese sauce over the endives, covering everything in cheesy goodness. Top with a little extra shredded cheese to make it golden and bubbly.
Bake & Broil: Bake for about 30 minutes. For the final few minutes, switch to the broil setting to get a gorgeous, crispy crust on top.
Serve with Mashed Potatoes: A mound of creamy mashed potatoes is the perfect complement to scoop up that extra sauce.
Enjoy this taste of Belgium—rich, cheesy, and with that lovely bitter note of the endives. Pair it with a cold Belgian beer, and maybe it’ll inspire you to book a trip to Flanders to try it fresh out of a Belgian oven!
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